You need to be logged in to post messages in our forums.
Photography Forum | A bit unsure.......any advice please?
Having just returned from a trip to The Channel Islands, i`m a bit dissapointed with the 500 or so pictures that i`ve taken.After a break of a few years i have just returned to spotting an photography.
Some were landing shots and some on the ground,taxiing and parked.
I was shooting in shutter priority mode at 1/400th sec. compensating expsure from 0, +1/3, +2/3 depending on the light conditions.
Zoom was anything from 24mm upto 400 or 500mm.
I realise it can be trial and error and takes practice.Heat haze was a bit of a problem at 28 degrees c ! !
My questions are....
1. Should shutter speed been higher? (If so what speed?) Obviously a problem with camera shake at 400-500mm.
2. OR... Could it simply be my camera not being up to the job ? (I was using a 14mp BRIDGE camera... ??? ) Would an SLR give better clarity?
Any help and advice will be gratefully recieved.
The shutter speed seems ok, obviously we can't see the conditions but 1/400th is sufficient for normal shooting, Personally I would use manual at 1/500 and f8 if conditions are bright you can adjust 1 or the other accordingly.
Bridge camera's will not be able to give the same quality as a DSLR. What file mode were you shooting? TIFF,RAW,JPG?
and is it possible to post a few of your efforts? it's not easy to advise without seeing some examples
I have decided to do the right thing and up grade to a DSLR.
Thanks again !
Great, hope it brings you many hours of enjoyment. I also hope to see some of your pics on P-M very soon.
Remember any advice that you may need all you have to do is ask here and I'm sure that somebody will be happy to help.
Hopefully some of my shots will make it on to here.
What file mode would be the best to use ,hopefully apart from a slight crop,the pictures will not need alot of editing ? jpeg ?
You may want to start shooting initially in JPEG format as it will require relatively less amount of editing.
Once you get some hands-on then you may try shooting RAW.
P-M has got a set of editing tips over here:
Glad to say that im happy with my new Nikon D3100 DSLR. !
I`m having great fun trying to get to know it and of course am making and learning from the mistakes that I make !
Could anyone please advise about the sharpening ,soft -hard settings within the camera ? These run from:-0 (soft) upto 9 (hard). Is it better to use a mid point?....or 0,or 9 ? or auto..? Any thoughts from users of this function on cameras are appreciated..
Could anyone please advise about the sharpening ,soft -hard settings within the camera ? These run from:-0 (soft) upto 9 (hard). Is it better to use a mid point?....or 0,or 9 ? or auto..?
I shall be interested to see what advice you receive in this respect. I use a Canon EOS 550D which has similar settings. Mine is on the 'standard' setting at present, but I am thinking of switching to 'natural', as this significantly reduces the amount of sharpening applied by the camera's own software. Hopefully, this, in turn, will allow me to make better/more precise use of the sharpening facilities contained within PS Elements.
On the shutter speeds, I'd add that as a general rule try to match the speed to the size of the lens you are using but also with you camera you need to factor in the 1.5 sensor multiplier. So a 200mm lens becomes a 300mm.
However this is only to remove camera shake and not to stop action as you need to consider that too. I try to shoot at least 1/500 sec.
Good luck with your new camera by the way, hope you enjoy it.
Hopefully any answers will also help other people too !
does any body know if the in camera image size (ie large ,medium,small) affect image quality ? Which would be the best to use?
I always use the largest image size, which, in the case of the 550D, is 18MP. I was told that, if you reduce the number of pixels and then find that you need to magnify the subject as part of the post-editing process, you risk losing picture quality.
Should Gimp 2.6 do the trick ? If I get to know it.
Thanks , Stu.
I have the first version of Elements which came with the DSLR but don't really use and stick with Irfanview.
I am thinking of switching to 'natural', as this significantly reduces the amount of sharpening applied by the camera's own software.
Having gone ahead and changed the picture settings on my Canon 550D from 'standard' to 'natural', I am now having an absolute nightmare when it comes to getting my photos through the screening process. For the record, I have also stopped relying on the 'auto-sharpening' facility in PS Elements 10 and am now using the 'unsharp mask' filter instead.
Having uploaded ten photos over the weekend, half a dozen of them were almost immediately rejected for being 'soft' or 'blurry'. Having applied some additional unsharp mask, I then re-uploaded the pics concerned, only for the majority of them to suffer exactly the same fate.
I am currently using the following settings in PS Elements 10:
Amount - between 100 - 200 per cent
Radius - between 0.2 - 0.5 pixels
Threshold - nil
Any suggestions as to where I might be going wrong would, therefore, be gratefully received.
I can offer what I generally use for edits that I now submit here, and have also submitted at A.net for many years - if they get through their sharpness requirements (which I personally think are rather too extreme) then they must be pretty sharp. I've used the same process on each of the bodies I've used 350D/400D/550D/7D, the last two still in use. I do use it in CS2 but the same settings are available in PS Elements 9, so I guess 10 is pretty much the same.
I do all my other editing before sharpening at the full size straight out of the camera, then I apply the following before reducing size.
Then I reduce down to the size to be used, usually 1200x800 pixels for here and A.Net. I will then do a second run, as above, but varying the amount between 150-500% depending on how soft the image is. but usually in the 150-200% area. In rare and extreme cases (usually if it requires this as well, then the pic ought to be dumped as unrecoverable) and when a pic is otherwise interesting enough to warrant an attempt to save it, I will do a third run at the setting below;
The effects of a 0.3 radius on a 1200 wide pic will be quite harsh, so this needs care if used, the recent twin Vampires over North Weald and a couple of the head on Typhoon shots of mine on the site were sharpened in this way.
The Vampires suffered from some motion blur and were a borderline upload, but heavy sharpening brought them back to a acceptable standard. I find that rare with motion blur, as it normally kills a picture and no amount of processing will usually recover it.
Those nose on Typhoons in low light were extremely soft due to distance (still down the runway), and a lack of light also made them noisy and soft. Heavy sharpening worked pretty well on them.
What might be a good idea is perhaps to post before and after shots, i.e straight from the camera and then processed - that's if you have the time, if not don't worry and thanks again.
Now please don't think I' m questioning anybody's work flow but 500% (30-70% is around what I use) seems quite a lot,however if it work's then great. I would advise to apply smaller amounts in several stages, also after re-sizing. It's difficult to advise on sharpening as everyone has different camera,lens,settings and editing suites. Just 1 note though Baltimore, soft shot's can be sharpened, blurry 1's can't. I'm not trying to patronize you in anyway but I was doing the same thing some time ago.
Good idea about posting up a comparision listed above. Problem is I can't seem to get any image files into a post on here. Attempting the usual forum [img] link, but it just hangs the forum when I post so what I've done is uploaded two originals to my photobucket account and will link them. I'm not sure if they will come out at 100% of size or not, so you may have to click on them to bring them to full size. Interesting thoughts above, personally I will try and minimise the number of edits I make in photoshop to the smallest number required. Another point to remember is that the effect a sharpening will have varies depending on the pixel size of the image it is applied to. The 500% at 0.2 radius has quite a small effect on a image still at the pixel size it comes out of the camera, but will make a massive amount of difference to a image that has been resized down to 1200 pixels. So as long as the image is still in the 3 to 5 mega pixel range, the above settings do have not much of a effect (the reason I do it is mainly because I will also save a image at 3400 pixels for personal use before sizing down to 1200 pixels for the database websites).
This is a link to my original at Photobucket of the two Vampires at North Weald shot on Friday. The 7D puts this out as 5184x3146 pixels at the highest JPEG setting. For the comparison I have sized it down to 1200x800 pixels, the uploaded size here, but no other changes (crop, levels, saturation, noise, colour balance all untouched).
This is the edited version accepted onto the site yesterday.
As you can see, it's one big crop (not to mention the one sharpish image from about a dozen frames!). This went through the following on unsharpen mask with Photoshop CS2
5184 pixels wide, 500%, 0.2 radius
1200 pixels wide, 500%, 0.2 radius
1200 pixels wide, 30-40%, 0.3 radius
Last one has the variable as I can't remember which exact percentage I used. All the above was done after all other editing. I must say though that I don't normally do this amount. I usually only do the first two runs at 0.2 on the radius. As posted earlier, I only get to this stage if a image is interesting enough to try and save. As previous poster said, if it's just very soft, then sharpening may bring it back, motion blur or focus problems cannot be saved, regardless how much sharpening is applied.
The other example below was a more steady shot, but was taken at a large zoom in rapidly deteriorating light. This was offset by planning it advance with a manual exposure, yet the 7D, despite it's high cost and usually impressive performance, is not good in low light as noise becomes a issue.
Same as above, this is the original.
With the edit on this site as below, same settings as above, the difference on the extreme tip of the nose cone is a good indicator of how much sharpening was involved.
This one is also on A.Net (took two attempts!). I hope that helps a little bit more but by all means shout if there's any other queries.
I hope that helps a little bit more but by all means shout if there's any other queries.
Gary, thanks again for taking the time and trouble to elaborate on your earlier post. Seeing the 'before' and 'after' shots definitely helps to put the whole sharpening issue into perspective (if you'll excuse the pun!).
Baltimore, soft shots can be sharpened, blurry 1's can't. I'm not trying to patronize you in anyway but I was doing the same thing some time ago.
Message received and understood! I've admitted defeat and removed the offending shots from the screening queue. Oh, and by the way, no offence taken - all advice is gratefully received.
I am so glad other people have got positives from it.
After my original post back in August,I`m off to the Channel Islands again tomorrow for Thursdays airshow. Armed with a new DSLR and a bit more knowledge.
I am going to try shooting in both RAW and JPEG.
Fingers crossed !!!
Blue skies to all !
Thanks upsmd11 for your view on photoshop. One last question please is ps 10 elements just a shorter version ? Thanks
Afraid to say I have no idea, I used elements once to give a tutorial but could not find my way around it. I'm a PS-er and stick to what I know. I know it's an expensive programme but for me worth it, after all no point spending the money on the camera's and lens' if your editing suite can't match it.
I suppose it's each persons preference, i was a big fan of Corel pro in the beginning but soon changed my 'team'
Thanks for all the above replies,as I have said before I am glad other people have got something from the original post that I started on this topic back in August.
With your advice,I have had 5 photos accepted on P-M in the name Stuntnuts.
Upload Your Photos!
Our upload form allows you to fill in the aircraft data while your photo uploads in the background making it what we believe to be the quickest aviation photo upload form on the net.
We even give you a progress bar showing how long until your photo is uploaded!
We screen most photos within 24 hours.
Any rejections are always given comments detailing the reasons.